What you do is get the Vista-Cruise throttle lock with the long extension that is supposed to go to the cables or something. You want the long one so you will have material to work with. The 'wide view' picture shows the throttle lock in place from the bar end. The upper arrow (A) points to the thumb control. Be careful that this thing doesn't hit your gas tank when the bars are turned and the lock is on or off. (Got my ZX, so I learned from that) The bottom arrow (B) points to the screw you'll have to add.
The 'Top view' picture is just a 'Gee Whiz' shot, shows how it should look when you're done. The 'Close view' picture shows the screw you have to add. This is the key to the whole deal. From the picture you can see where it goes.
You will have to drill the throttle lock and tap it for 10-32 or 8-32, whatever you have. You will also drill the throttle assembly for a pass-thru of the size you selected. The screw will tighten into the throttle lock and fit loosely into the throttle assembly. This is what prevents the lock from turning. It needs to fit without excess movement, but still free. The arrow points to the place where you will have to cut off the projection that comes on the lock.
I'm afraid this isn't a step by step procedure, but it does reflect how I work. If you monkey around slowly and carefully, you get the job done. Better the next time, better the time after that. This is my third one this year, I think. I hope this helps...
(Submitted by Harry 'Moto' Ritter) [Index]
A popular modification is to remove one or more of the stock decals. A hair dryer, held some distance from the decal, usually softens the glue enough that the decal can be carefully peeled off. Be careful of scratching the paint!
Most of the decals will come off cleanly. Some will leave a glue residue. Although a lot of various chemicals can be used to remove the glue (or a stubborn decal), many of us favor a product called GOO GONE made by Magic American Corp. (+1 800 321-6330). It's available at many hardware stores and chains like KMART, Walmart, etc. It is seems to be less toxic than most chemicals, doesn't damage the paint, works quite well, and has a semi-pleasant citrus smell. It doesn't make the decals or glue melt off, you still have to rub on them, but even the large metalic TL1000 decals come off with 10-15 minutes of rubbing. Just remember to use a soft cloth, or you may end up getting small scratches in the painted surfaces.
If you do mar the paint when removing the decals, small scratches are easily removed by using a polishing compound. Brian found that the "safe cut" liquid compound from The Wax Shop works fairly well.
(Submitted by H. Marc Lewis and Brian Faulkner) [Index]
(Submitted by H. Marc Lewis) [Index]
In September of 1997, Suzuki sent letters to all registered TL owners in the USA (and, apparently, other countries as well) offering their appology and a 'new replacement ECU' which they say will make the bike just about perfect ECU-wise and be much less sensitive to drifting out of tune than were the original few revisions of the ECU.
I had my ECU replaced via this program in September, 1997, in the USA. I am very happy with the result. The 'stumbles' are effectively gone, and the bike now feels like a well-carburated motorcycle.
Here are the part numbers:
32920-02F40 112100-0120 USA (original)The parts department at Suzuki GB says: "It seems that the 32920-02 part is a worldwide ID number for the ECU. The bit that starts Fxx signifies a variation in the ECU dependent upon the market for which it is intended (UK-F00, USA-F40). The bit which starts 112100-xxxx is probably a manufacturers number or a batch number."
32920-02F41 112100-0123 USA (new, per Suzuki)
32920-02F00 112100-0070 UK & Australia (original)
32920-02F00 112100-0072 UK (original)
32920-02F00 112100-0090 UK (original)
32920-02F01 NZ & Australia (new)
(Submitted by H. Marc Lewis) [Index]
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